Showing posts with label watering tomatoes. Show all posts
Showing posts with label watering tomatoes. Show all posts

Monday, June 13, 2011

Rolled tomato leaves can be caused by several things. Many serious tomato diseases, including curly top, mosaic, fusarium and herbicide injury, begin with rolling leaves. But if your plants are green and no other symptoms appear, it’s probably plain old “tomato leaf roll”. It’s a temporary disorder resulting from excessively wet soil, especially after heavy rains, or bright sunshine on young plants. It doesn’t affect the plant’s growth. A normal crop of fruit is usually produced. The rolling typically disappears in a few days when the soil dries out. ‘Big Boy’, ‘Floramerica’ and ‘Beefsteak’ are affected most often. - Walter Reeves (http://www.walterreeves.com/gardening-q-and-a/tomato-leaf-roll/). Curling or rolling of tomato leaves can be caused by various factors including environmental stresses, viral infection and herbicide damage. To determine which factor is the culprit, it pays to take a close look at the plant(s). Which leaves are rolling – old leaves, new leaves, all leaves? What direction do the leaves roll – upward or downward? Are any other parts of the plant, including fruit, exhibiting symptoms?


The Extension Service of Clemson University writes (http://www.clemson.edu/extension/hgic/hot_topics/2008/05tomato_leaf_roll.html):

Physiological Leaf Roll: Excessive moisture and nitrogen, heat, drought, severe pruning, root damage and transplant shock are some of the environmental factors that can cause physiological leaf roll in tomatoes. Initial symptoms are usually apparent in the lower leaves with an upward cupping of leaflets followed by an inward lengthwise rolling of the leaflets toward the mid-vein. The affected leaves tend to become thickened and have a leathery texture, but retain a normal, healthy green color. Over time all of the leaves on the plant may be affected. Interestingly, vine tomato (indeterminate) varieties tend to exhibit physiological leaf roll more often than bush tomato (determinate) varieties. While this condition can occur at any time of the growing season, it usually occurs as spring weather shifts to summer. The good news is that the condition has minimal impact on tomato fruit production and plant growth. By properly hardening off tomato seedlings before planting in the garden, maintaining a consistent moisture level in the soil, and avoiding over fertilization, excessive pruning and root damage during cultivation, one can go a long way toward preventing tomato plants from developing this physiological problem.

Viral Infections: Some viral infections also cause leaf rolling in tomatoes. When tomato plants are infected with tomato yellow leaf curl virus (transmitted by whiteflies), new leaves become cupped and pale green in color. In addition the entire plant may exhibit stunted growth, yellowing leaf edges, purplish veins on the undersides of leaves and decline of fruit production. A second virus, tomato mosaic virus, causes rolling of leaves, but other symptoms, including mottled-coloring of leaves, small leaflets and internal browning of infected fruit, distinguish it from physiological or herbicide-induced leaf roll.

There is no treatment for virus-infected plants. Removal and destruction of plants is recommended. Since weeds often act as hosts to the viruses, controlling weeds around the garden can reduce virus transmission by insects. As some viruses are transmitted mechanically on garden tools, it also helps to disinfect tools that have come into contact with diseased plants.

Herbicide Damage: When tomato plants are exposed to the herbicide, 2,4-D, typical symptoms include downward rolling of leaves and twisted growth. In addition, stems may turn white and split; fruit may be deformed. Depending on the level of exposure, the plant may or may not survive.


Mississippi State University Extension Service (http://msucares.com/newsletters/pests/infobytes/19980624.htm)

Leaf roll isn't a disease that will spread from plant-to-plant, but it is what is referred to as a physiological disease. The condition has been common statewide and is more likely to happen in either very wet seasons or during periods of extended dryness.

Since the latter weather conditions have predominated in most areas of the state in recent weeks, leaf roll is probably tied in with dry soils. And as a result, tomato plants are showing an upward rolling of the leaflets of the older leaves.

At first, this rolling gives the leaflet a cupped appearance and it continues until the margins of the leaflets touch or even overlap each other. The rolled leaves are firm and leathery to the touch. One half to three-fourths of the foliage may be affected.

The growth of the leaf roll tomato plants is not noticeably checked and a normal crop if fruit is generally produced. In most cases, leaf roll occurs in combination with dry soils and when tomato plants are pruned severely. Also, leaf roll may occur following deep, close cultivation.

Some varieties are more sensitive to leaf roll than others, but none are completely resistant to this problem. The symptoms on tomatoes are very similar to those of a virus disease of potatoes that is known as leaf roll, but the leaf roll of tomatoes is not caused by virus infection.

Suggested control measures which may help avoid leaf roll in a fall crop include:

  • Plant tomatoes in a well-drained soil.
  • Fertilize according to soil test recommendations and do not over fertilize, particularly with nitrogen containing fertilizers.
  • Avoid deep and close cultivation especially in dry weather.
  • Maintain uniform soil moisture through irrigation, supplying an inch of water per week.
  • Mulch tomatoes with plastic or organic material.

Infobytes newsletter was written by the late Dr. Frank Killebrew, Extension Specialist.

Monday, May 16, 2011

Black Fungus on Tomato Plants

Black Fungus (as pictured) can be devastating to almost all vegetable plants and tomatoes are definitely not excluded. The main causes of Black Fungus are incorrect watering (top watering, watering at night, etc.) and insufficient air circulation (plants too close together, branches on the ground, mulch too close, etc.). Black Fungus thrives in damp and cold conditions. If you see brown or black spots on leaf branches, you must take action NOW. This will not go away on its own. Some master gardeners say at the first sign of Black Fungus you should dig u p the plant and all of its soil base then throw it in the trash. Black Fungus is very contagious and imperative to be prevented. If you have slight signs of Black Fungus, you must visit your garden twice a day, determining the severity. Upon the first sighting of black mold: pinch off affected leaves or branches. If you have not already pruned your tomato plants you will find that pruning will get rid of most of the affected branches for the B lack Fungus usually progresses from the soil.

Day by Day Black Fungus Prescription

  • Day One (Initial Sighting of Black Fungus): Prune Tomato Plants (see our previous notes) w hile making sure the mulch is 3 to 4 inches away from the stem at the soil;
  • Day One (P M): Pinch off all affected leaves (NOTE: if you are pulling off more than one handful of leaves off one plant, then dig up the plant being careful to remove all of its soil and throw both into the trash. Do not compost!)
  • Day Two (AM) Pinch off all affected leaves and purchase an Organic Fungicide (see above Note) ;
  • Day Two (PM) Apply fungicide to test plants (see above Note);
  • Day Three (AM) Observe affects of Fungicide on test plants (see above Note);
  • Day Three (PM) Observe affects of Fungicide on test plants. If test plants are improved or unaffected by the fungicide, then apply fungicide to ALL tomato plants carefully following the directions for the fungicide (see above Note).
  • Day Four (AM) After applying fungicide continue to monitor this potential disappointing devastation fungus invasion. See above NOTE.

Prevention Notes:

  • Water Consistently
  • Make Sure Calcium is available in the soil. (Lime and Gypsum are calcium sources. Lime raises pH. Gypsum lowers pH.)
  • Prune Tomato Plants
  • Plant Tomato Plants in Pots if Garden Soil is Infected (Take special note to size, color and type of pot).
  • Keep pets out of planted area
  • Insure Air Circulation (If in a green house then run a fan at least twice a day)